Natural v. Laboratory-Grown Diamonds

What is the difference? Which one should you choose?

In the last few years, controversy has swirled around lab-grown diamonds in the jewelry industry. While some jewelers have taken the stance of “natural only”, others, like ourselves, have decided to let the customer choose what best suits their budget and preferences by educating them on the pros and cons of both. So, what is the difference between them, and why is it so controversial? To sum up, the largest distinguishing factor is length of formation, and it is quite the disparity - from a few weeks to a billion years.

Natural Diamonds

What sets natural diamonds apart from its synthetic counterpart is the sheer fact that their journey to creation started literally billions of years ago, and we aren’t exaggerating in the slightest! They’re also formed deep within the Earth, typically about 125 miles from the crust and are then brought to the surface through volcanic activity. Because of their protracted length of formation, the Earth’s supply of natural diamonds is finite, making them more rare and thus, more valuable. Some diamond lovers believe that these and other gemstones hold a certain spiritual essence that could never be replicated in a lab due to its extensive natural fabrication in the Earth, such as inspiring enlightenment or increasing abundance, among many others.

Laboratory-Grown Diamonds

While natural diamonds take just a few billion years to form, laboratory-grown diamonds are made within a few weeks. Due to their ease of manufacturing, they can be mass-produced, making them more affordable than natural diamonds. It is important to understand that lab-grown diamonds are neither imitation nor simulants. They are composed of the exact same elements as natural diamonds, including their physical, chemical, and optical qualities. A person cannot discern a natural diamond from a lab-grown with the naked eye because special equipment is required to test its origins. 
There are two kinds of processes to form diamonds in a lab, HPHT (high pressure high temperature) and CVD (chemical vapor deposition). The former is more expensive and is typically used for smaller stones, 0.10 ct or less. The latter is more widely used and involves carbon precipitating from a plasma cloud onto a HPHT seed crystal. Subsequently, the synthetic diamond forms as the carbon deposit builds.

Best Option for You

Since we want our customers to feel comfortable and secure in any product they purchase, the more you understand what you are buying, the more confidently you can make the best decision for your personal style and preferences. If you are looking at your jewelry purchase as an investment, natural diamonds are the better choice as they have an estimated resale range of 20-60% more than lab-grown. However, lab-grown diamonds are almost always in the higher quality range because they adhere to the industry standard. Their color is usually E-F (colorless) and clarity typically being around VS2 (very slightly included). Natural diamonds have a much wider range of quality due to their natural variations in diverse properties. For engagement rings especially, many couples prefer natural diamonds because of their representation of “forever love”, preferring their stone to have the ancient metaphysical properties that natural diamonds inherently possess. If you are looking for more information, contact us to schedule a consultation so that we can provide you with all the information you need to make the decision for your piece with clarity and ease.


Automatic v. Battery-Powered Watches

Over the years, the number of customers who have brought in generational timepieces to be “fixed” when they just needed to be wound might surprise you. When families inherit older timepieces that are not working, they typically assume that it is the battery that needs replacing. When we explain that the watch is actually an automatic that just needs some rotation in our watch winder, they are sometimes bewildered at our recommendation. So, what are the differences between an automatic and a battery-powered (also known as quartz) watches, and which one is the better option? The answer, like most of our recommendations, lies in personal preference as well as an individual’s lifestyle.

Automatic Watches

Because automatic watches run on the regular movement of the wearer’s wrist, there is no battery required for operation. The rotor inside the watch spins with the natural motion of the wrist movement. This kinetic energy is what keeps the rotor spinning, allowing for continual function. It also makes it the more sustainable and eco-friendly choice due to its lack of battery, leaving less of a carbon footprint than its quartz counterpart. Additionally, automatics are the preference for those wearers who value traditional craftsmanship. The inside parts of an automatic watch are more complex and intricately designed, typically making them more valuable than quartz watches. For example, most modern Rolex watches run solely on perpetual movement. Some wearers even feel a deeper connection to these watches because of its reliance on the wearer’s movement for function, the watch and wearer becoming one. Since these timepieces are more luxurious and timeless, they are also the better choice for those who value the sentimentality of their watches and want to see them last through generations as a family heirloom or as a collector’s item.

Battery-Powered (Quartz) Watches

For those watch wearers who prefer functionality and affordability in their timepieces, battery-powered watches are the better choice. They have a much wider price range, offering options for any budget. Because they run on a battery, the timekeeping tends to be more accurate; however, the battery does need replacement once it runs out, typically every few years but sometimes more often depending on the watch. While this option may be more convenient, it is less eco-friendly.

In conclusion, both types of watches offer various benefits, which are subjective to its wearer. If you still are not sure which type is best for you, feel free to contact us with any questions you may have. Remember that watches are not only about efficient time management, but they also make a statement of your individual style and taste, so choose accordingly!

What is a Jewelry Appraisal?

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A jewelry appraisal is an official document that contains the assessed value of a piece in case of damage, loss, or theft. It is provided for your insurance company and your personal records.

With over 75 years of combined experience, Capone’s Jewelry assesses the most accurate value of your jewelry.  A certified GIA Diamond Grader will analyze your diamond, gemstone, and precious metal jewelry. Bring any documentation, such as sales slips, diamond or gemstone grading reports, as well as warranties if you have them. Please note that current metal markets and trademarks, brand names, serial numbers can have an impact on the assessed value.

We also appraise estate collections that include multiple items. Please call to discuss pricing.

Schedule an appointment for an appraisal here.

Custom Engagement Rings for a Swedish Couple

We have been fortunate to have a diverse demographic of customers over the years here in small town Blacksburg, VA. Learning about and adhering to other cultures’ customs during the engagement and marriage process is something that we have enjoyed being included in. While wedding and engagements rings are often a universal symbol of love and commitment, there are cultural variations of how they are presented, chosen, and designed. The rings shown in the picture below are ones that we designed for a couple from Sweden.

Whereas the tradition in many cultures is to propose with a diamond ring, the custom in Sweden has been for both men and women to wear simple gold bands as their engagement rings. Afterwards, a diamond ring or another band is typically purchased for the woman to receive at the wedding. Although the bands have traditionally been simple and plain, the look is evolving to include more ornate designs that incorporate individual style and flair.

For these particular rings, the custom process started when the customer brought in a drawing of their own design. We used their sketch to develop a wax model of the ring with hand carvings, which was then cast in 18k yellow gold. There was some difficulty in determining finger size due to differences in sizing and number conversions, but we thankfully figured it out. Next, some milgrain and other engraving details were added around the edges, and two small round diamonds were set in one of the rings. Then the bands were polished, and the couple was ready to start their matrimonial journey. They emailed us the picture from Sweden along with the following thoughtful message:

Dear Faith,

We would like to send our thanks to you for making our rings. We are
very happy with how they turned out and they both fit perfectly on our
fingers. Thank you for making our design come true. We are now happily
engaged and will be married in the summer.

Best wishes from Sweden,

And thank YOU for allowing us Americans to be a part of your Swedish engagement and design process! :)

Custom Design Onyx and Ruby Gent's Ring

We typically don't carry men's rings other than wedding bands in stock. It's difficult because there is such a wide variety of styles that we normally just custom design them. This particular concept was exciting and out of the ordinary, which is always a fun creative process to be a part of.
This ring was commissioned by a local artist and retired professor of Virginia Tech. Donning a ring on almost every finger, he really wanted this particular one to stand out but still blend in with his look and personality. He sports heavy vests, hats, a large bushy beard, as well as silver chains with skull and wing medallions hanging from them. You know, just your run of the mill custom design request!
Having long artistic fingers, we knew this ring needed to be quite large. He deeply admires Native American silver motifs, which he wanted included into the design. Even though he prefers turquoise, it was decided a dark cabochon onyx would hold up better from daily wear and tear. Because he loves the color red and wanted the ring to have its own personality, a small natural ruby was added to the side serving as a talisman for passion and wealth.
A hand-carved wax model was created to adhere to the shape and size of his hand as well as to the proportion of the stones. Having made several original indigenous-inspired designs, Kirk carved the tribal graphics, which were derived from Native American, Aztec, and Caribbean roots, around the shank and bezel. It was then cast in sterling silver, the stones were set, the ring was polished and ready for wear!

Do Your Prongs Need Retipping?

When was the last time you had your rings checked? We recommend bringing your rings in twice a year to ensure that the prongs are not worn down and are efficiently holding your stones in place.

What is a prong?

A prong is a metal tine or projection that holds a gemstone in place. A ring can have anywhere from four to hundreds of prongs.

How does it get worn down?

Prongs become worn from everyday normal use! However, erosion can occur faster due to several situations. For example, if a ring is too large and is constantly being readjusted by your finger (in which case it would also be a good idea to have it sized), or if a stone has been loose for a period of time. Also, wearing your rings while doing manual labor can also cause them to wear more quickly. Do you wear your rings to bed? If so, sheets can actually be abrasive on metal prongs - believe it or not!

How do we fix it?

If we check your rings and find that a prong (or prongs) are worn down, then we will recommend retipping. This process involves soldering a metal bead or wire to the prong with the stone still in place and shaping it so that it functions as a new prong. In some cases, a prong needs to be replaced. If that were the case, then we would saw off the old prong, solder a metal wire and shape it into the new prong - also with the stone still in place. In rare cases, the entire prong setting needs to be replaced where we would remove the stone, assemble a new setting, and then reset the stone.

Why Fix Prongs?

If you do not fix a prong, then you risk your stone coming loose and potentially losing it. It's certainly more economical than replacing a stone!

If it's been more than 6 months since you've had your rings checked, bring them in, and we will check them for you free of charge.

                                        Kirk retipping…

                                        Kirk retipping a prong

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Capone's is MOVING!

We are very excited to finally announce that our store is moving from its current location to the historic old Annie Kay's building in the Brownstone. This new space will allow us to have a more accessible and one-level storefront, parking spaces in the back, updated cases and lighting to better display our jewelry, and a new workshop in the back. Plus, we get to remain in the original 16 blocks of Downtown Blacksburg! The renovation process has already started - the layout is currently being framed, and long windows are being installed along the side. Keep checking the blog for updates! We hope you are as excited as we are! This is a picture of Austin and Jackson checking out the progress on the new spot:

Custom Three Stone Engagement Ring and Band Set

One of the most interesting and sometimes complicated aspects of custom design in jewelry is finding a way to aesthetically incorporate old stones or metal into new pieces. Jewelry can hold a sentimental or nostalgic value to a person or family, and while a customer may find an inherited piece of jewelry tired or outdated, they don't necessarily want to trade in the piece for a brand new one. There are not many industries where this type of "recycling" (for lack of a better word) is possible. It is rather gratifying to be able to redesign pieces that the customer enjoys wearing and that still maintain the sentimentality.
We were recently commissioned to redesign an engagement ring for a couple that has been married for some time. They wanted to incorporate the diamond from the previous ring as well as one recently inherited. They wanted a three stone ring, so we had to locate a third stone that would match in cut, carat, color, and clarity. Matching stones can be challenging, but fortunately we successfully accomplished the task! The customers also requested a more vintage-looking piece with the diamonds set as low as possible to the finger. This is the wax of the ring with the stones set in it:

We decided to go with a bezel setting, which is the whole diamond surrounded by metal. While this is one of the safest settings for a gemstone, a drawback is that it can reduce the light coming in, which inhibits the shine of the stone. Therefore, we put tiny cut outs in the sides of the bezel to bring in more light. Since this ring is set in platinum, it is more dense and can better support the diamond with the cut outs, which made us feel more comfortable in doing it. Another way that we were able to integrate the old engagement ring was to remove the part holding the diamond, the head, to make a plain white gold band that would fit nicely next to the new ring. Here are the finished rings:

Custom Engagement Ring for Justin and Sarah

Justin came to Austin with several pictures of engagement rings for his girlfriend, Sarah. He wanted his own ring to be unique, so he decided to have a custom ring made. He had his own middle stone already and wanted side stones to match. He requested sketches before a wax was made. Three different designs were created:

Justin liked different elements of each design, so a wax was created that incorporated a combination:

Since Justin and Sarah live in Charlotte, photos of the wax were stealthily sent to Justin for final approval. We slightly adjusted the size of the band, and because this ring is set in White Gold, it was sent out for casting:

The stones were set, the ring was polished, Justin proposed in the Outer Banks, and Sarah said YES! Congratulations to our best friends!

Making the Steger Award, A Poetry Prize for Virginia Tech Students

For the past 10 years, we have been commissioned by our longtime customer and friend, Nikki Giovanni, to make an award that is presented to the winner of the Steger Poetry Prize. We hammer and forge sterling silver to create a magnifier statue meant for a desk. The design changes slightly each year. Setting the magnifying glass in a bezel is always a challenge - it is equivalent to setting a giant gemstone. A big congratulations to this year's winner! 

Read more about the award below:
http://www.vtnews.vt.edu/articles/2015/04/042915-clahs-stegerpoetry.html

Custom Antique Flatware Bracelets

We often have customers coming in and asking us what they can do with antique silverware that they have inherited. Since flatware comes as a set, it is unlikely that you would want to split it up among family members. We recently had a customer who had a set of flatware and pictures she found on the Internet of similar designs. They were her grandmother's, and she wanted a bracelet made for her and her sister. The fork tines were melted and manipulated into heart shapes. While the engraving was already etched on the fork, it can always be added afterwards for a personal touch. Rings can be made out of smaller forks or spoons as well. This is a great way to maintain the sentimentality of a common family heirloom. It's personal yet stylish at the same time!

Custom Design Yellow and Green Emerald Necklace and Earrings

A customer recently came in with an idea for a custom Yellow and Green Emerald necklace for their 55th(!) wedding anniversary, fittingly also known as the Emerald Anniversary. They brought in their own emeralds and their own sketch of the layout they had in mind, which Faith adapted into her own sketch (below). The necklace was to have a minimal amount of yellow gold showing, which is why prongs were used. Additionally, they wanted it to be worn at different lengths, so it was designed so that they could adjust the length to be 16, 18, or 20 inches. A pair of matching earrings were also made. Both the necklace and earrings turned out absolutely stunning!

Faith's sketch

Faith's sketch

The necklace

The earrings